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The Borderlands |
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More than anything, I want to write about a culture that is evolving,
one that transcends the demarcations of border patrols and free
trade zones (and that has arisen, in part, because of them). A
culture that deposits the music and the legend of the late, great
rapper Tupac Shakur in the Indian highlands of Michoacán, and
Indian festivals from the highlands of Michoacán on the Main Streets
of small towns in the Upper Midwest; a culture that sends Catholics
tumbling into spiritual tribes that speak in tongues and causes
"straight" American men to lust after Mexican transvestites, a
culture that breaks down the old black-white structure of the
Civil Rights movement in the U.S. and bodes the end of the PRI's
stranglehold on Mexican politics, a culture that globalizes the
best and the worst of all our desires and ways of seeing the world.
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I write, then, of the borderlands, of life and death in the borderlands.
And this border, or, if you will, post-border culture, is much
more than a regional phenomenon. More than a geographical region,
I write of a cultural space created by forces that are not unique
to this region, but part of a much larger, indeed global, evolution.
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Perhpas what we are seeing is, in the context of the history of
the Americas, merely the ongoing process of mestizaje, which originally
described the mingling of European and Indian blood and culture
that created the mixed people (mestizos) that are the majority
in Latin America today. Mestizaje, unlike the U.S. assimilationist
term "melting pot," allows for the Indian influence to serve not
as a historical footnote but as an enduring, ever-evolving legacy.
Likewise, it allows for new influences to be adopted continuously
without really jeapordizing the historical root. Mestizaje is
a journey that has no end; it is the cultural version of perpetual
motion not in theory but in practice. |
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"Mexicans can't forget; Americans never remember," the adage goes,
and it does capture something of a cultural truth in terms of
the way things are perceived from one side of the border or the
other. But mestizaje allows for an intermediate space where the
future does not necessarily annihilate the past, where both commingle
in the present. I walk out of my apartment in Mexico City and
hear the ubiquitous street musicians play songs from the days
of the Revolution; I turn the corner and at the video arcade Indian-looking
kids are drop-kicking bad guys, Ninja-style. In the highlands
of Michoacán, a satellite dish trained at the heavens receives
The X-Files, but Indian fiestas are still celebrated much the
way they were before the arrival of the Conquistadores.
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As north and south come together in one huge borderland, traditions
clash and meld. The north offers its optimism, something the south
desperately needs; the south, in turn, offers a new way of looking
at the way cultures develop. Mestizaje, I believe, is much closer
to the experience of the United States than the "melting pot"
or the more contemporary, politically correct (and slightly nationalist)
idea of cultures in the United States approximating a "chunky
stew."
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Americans (of all races and ethnicities), though they often want
to deny it, are becoming mestizos, too. Walk into the bedrooms
of the youngest Americans (black or white or yellow or brown,
working-, middle- or upper-class), and listen to what they listen
to on their CD players. You will hear the strains of a band called
Sublime, whose late lead singer, Bradley Nowell, sang songs peppered
with Spanish and set to a reggae beat (Nowell was a tow-headed
surfer type from Long Beach, California). Or you will hear the
"artist formerly known as Prince" performing a salsa jam as hot
as anything out of the Lower East Side on a Monday night. Or you'll
meet an iconoclastic pop genius named Beck, who titled a recent
album Odelay, which, he tells us, is the way an Anglo kid like
himwho just happened to have a Mexican stepdad from Chihuahuapronounces
the Mexican colloquial affirmation, "¡Orale!"
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